AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD TIME TRAVELS

Reaching week four of lockdown is a reminder that California was the first State to realise that social distancing was a necessary step in reducing deaths from the coronavirus pandemic.  The Sunshine State’s leadership, thus far, has been calm, considered and given confidence that it is making difficult decisions in a thoughtful and intentional way.  But this week also signals that four weeks on from the stay at home order the future is still unclear.

It’s obviously an anxious time thinking about family, friends and colleagues in the UK and I wish you all well.  Watching the UK’s current dance of damage limitation over PPE and the non-answers about deaths in the health service is a reminder that, as one publication put it, there is a ‘vacuum’ at the head of Government.  A vacuum would probably do a better job because at least it accepts that its function is to clean up the mess and suck it up, rather than posture and blow hot air.    

Constraints on travel, meeting and hospitality make for restless minds and the only real option is to dream of places far away or to look backwards to better times.  I’m going to cover distant places in a later blog but I find myself, on a daily basis, wondering how people I know around the globe are doing.  Bono once sang about ‘trying to throw your arms around the world’ which seemed supportive of my mood until, in the same song, he reminded me that ‘a woman needs a man, like a fish needs a bicycle’.

The sentiment is true except for the fact that I am the resident tea-maker in the house – it’s one of the areas where English genetic advantages are obvious .  In that role I was trying to explain about the Teasmade and how it was a mark of the aspiring middle class in the 1970s.  The first automatic tea-maker patent was actually in 1891 by the wonderfully named Samuel Rowbottom.  But it is the Goblin Teasmade, dating from 1931, that lingers in the memory as the noisy, complicated beast that made stewed tea from under-heated water.

This started a walk down memory lane about emerging signs of the British working class becoming a middle class and set the scene for monetarism, globalism and the end of the post-war social consensus.  Consumerism and conspicuous consumption blossomed and US pop acts, TV series and films dominated the airwaves.  Strange that it all happened in a decade the country endured a three-day week, a year with two General Elections and a drought.

There was an obsession with carpets as people moved from functional, low-cost floor covering to being knowledgeable about twists, fibres, density and weight. Even kitchens became carpeted rather than having the type of sticky underfoot, luridly patterned, vinyl beloved by my grandmother.  The word ‘shag’ became all about quality carpet rather than water-birds, tobacco, lockdown hair styles, or some other form of deviation from the norm. 

Then there were holidays in Spain for the adventurous who would rather deal with Latinate disdain than Welsh hostility.  In the era when Silvia topped the charts with Y Viva Espana, the sign of the aspiring middle class was ten days in Benidorm and a winter tan that could be topped up with a home sunbed.  Nobody cared about the long-term effects of sun exposure as coconut oil was slathered to ensure flesh was fried and lime juice was squirted in hair to provide highlights atop sunburnt bodies that owed more to pie consumption than Baywatch.  As it happens Baywatch didn’t arrive in the UK until the late 1980s – perhaps a sign of how far we advanced in that decade.

Spanish holidays led to a passion for cocktails served from a home bar in a kitchen where a high, island table had been formed out of MDF.  The ultimate touch was having bar stools that allowed you to while away the English winter sipping on a Pina Colada while dreaming about Typically Tropical’s promise of ‘going to Barbados’.  Even for the middle class that hope was more a wish, sustained by Del Trotter’s motto that ‘next year we’ll be millionaires’, than a reality.

I was surprised to learn that the Barbados song was the brainchild of two Welsh engineers, Jeff Calvert and Max West.  It song inspired a 1999 cover by Dutch Eurodance group, the Vengaboys, called ‘We’re Going to Ibiza’, which has the distinction of the main chorus line sounding like ‘whoa, I’m going to eat pizza’.  From Wales to Barbados to Holland and then back to Spain – you can’t argue that this blog doesn’t get around.

Back in my 1970s time capsule a balaclava was still considered an ideal Christmas present and often knitted by a loving grandmother.  Words like sombrero, beret and fez became increasingly popular although anyone who came to school wearing one would pay the consequences and carry the bruises.  Maybe that’s why I spent several troubled months where I didn’t understand that baklava was something you ate rather than a Greek form of headwear. 

And there was the brief flirtation with nylon sheets in dayglo colours which combined with nylon pyjamas to carry a serious risk of static electric shocks while sliding uncontrollably around the bed.  New cars were a dream that could almost certainly be fulfilled with ubiquitous hire-purchase and owning a house became a defining feature of the change in society.  Being paid weekly, or sometimes daily, in cash, was giving gave way to bank accounts, cheques and even credit cards.          

It’s an era where the tension between the certainties of the past and the hopes for the future is captured almost perfectly in the late, great Victoria Woods’ epic Let’s Do It.  The song tells the story of a libidinous woman and a jaundiced man.  The woman is seeking excitement, passion and novelty while the man clings to domesticity, DIY and dreariness. 

The romp reminds us of the time that avocado was a lewd and licentious fruit for the bohemian and a hostess trolley was the middle-class housewives dream.  Grouting, lagging and thermal vests were the preserve of the sensible and the cautious.  The line ‘beat me on the bottom with the Woman’s Weekly’ is a nine-word summary of how old values were being torn up (or perhaps rolled up) and the country was working to embrace the future.

My father once told me that it was important to ‘laugh at life’ in all its inanity, confusion and uncertainty which seems like good advice right now.  I offer up Let’s Do It as a small service to help with that process during these troubled and uncertain times.  Enjoy (at a reasonable distance), keep smiling (behind the mask) and keep safe.       

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD AND SOCIALLY DISTANT

Strictly speaking expatriates have been doing this social distancing lark ever since they left their country of birth.  Six feet shouldn’t seem very much when you’ve put an ocean and several thousand miles between yourself and the society in which you were born and bred.  But these are remarkable times and everybody is living apart from the life and people they know.   

Anybody looking at this blog for any answers about how things will resolve themself is going to go away even more disappointed by my ramblings than usual.  The media – social and mainstream – has been full of pundits giving their views on what’s going to happen and usually they are proven incorrect within three days.  So, it’s difficult to know how three months, or even three weeks, is going to be.

For what it is worth I hope that after two to three months of community action to save lives we will all be better people and realise, at last, that Margaret Thatcher was wrong to suggest ‘there’s no such thing as society’.  But I realise that there is every possibility that economic meltdown could lead to an even greater upheaval based on survival, selfishness and personal greed.  It’s a bit more disturbing in a country where the race to purchase guns has been as shocking as the stockpiling of toilet rolls.  

For now, the streets of sunny San Diego are peopled by individuals who wave at each other and say hello as they cross the street to follow the medically approved etiquette is observed.  Dogs are happy that they receive five walks a day but slightly bemused that they aren’t allowed close enough to do the social sniffing that is good behaviour in their world.  Bars and restaurants are building their delivery business and our local favourite The Whistlestop had its first Instagram Happy Hour, with Britpop classics, on Friday evening.        

Americans are ‘can do’ sort of people and as usual national characteristics come to the fore in times of stress and crisis.  It was impressive to see the Italians turn to opera and classical dancing on their balconies as they came out each evening to demonstrate their unity and defiance.  The South Koreans and the Germans have impressed us all with their testing, tracing and total focus on following scientific advice to get ahead of the virus.

In the middle of this, and as if there was not enough socially transmitted disease around, the British had the infamous ‘Clap For Carers’ to show support for the front-line saviours in the NHS.  It is sad that a country with the richest history in modern music – the Beatles, the Stones, Zeppelin, Oasis et al – were unable to find a song to unite the country in a time of national struggle.  It’s very difficult to accept that You’ll Never Walk Alone is the answer because strictly speaking the current rules say that you should and must do exactly that. 

My own choice would have been, 500 Miles by the Proclaimers, because it at least implies that you start a long way away from each other.  At an average of 3mph and walking eight hours a day it would take 20 days to get within six feet which is, of course, an appropriate self-isolation time if you started off with symptoms.  It’s also a lot more rousing and has sufficient ‘da da da dun diddle un diddle un diddle uh da’ for those who are no good with lyrics. 

For aficionados it is worth adding that the line in the song saying, ‘and I would walk 500 more’, indicates a willingness to walk 1,000 miles.  That is taking precautionary measures to a new dimension but in a spirit of being useful I’d note that it’s about 2,000,000 steps, or 100,000 calories, which would see you lose about 28lb in weight (all else being equal).  That seems quite a disappointing return on so much walking but the combination of social distancing, exercise and weight loss could make it mandatory under the ever changing Government guidelines.     

It was particularly misguided to pick a song so closely associated with a single football club – even if Liverpool have successfully distanced themselves so spectacularly on points from the rest of the Premier League.  It’s amusing to see these runaway leaders stranded when they are so close to equalling Leicester City’s record of one Premier League title, but also a constant reminder that live football is sorely missed.  The NBCS response is hour long shows featuring the greatest goals scored but that is like replacing a three course, gourmet meal with microwave canapes and dips – all taste and no substance.

It’s like showing the last three seconds of a boxer being counted out, or the five strides before a 1500 metre runner crosses the line in an Olympic final, or just the final putts in a closely fought Open championship.  Sport is about the ebb and flow of the event, the moments of controversy and the play of pressure, luck and character which forms the spirit of the game.  Next thing to fill the gap will probably be ‘100 Greatest VAR Moments’ because that acronym probably always stood for Virus Against Reality.

The situation is stressful in many other ways but one thing that distresses me is the continual chatter about cash being cast aside by polite society and literally becoming ‘filthy lucre’ used only by pariahs, pimps and drug overlords.  As the latter two groups have moved onto virtual currencies in a big and totally untraceable way it’s probably only social outcasts who will still carry on using ‘shrapnel’ and ‘folding’.  That means I will still be socially distanced when all this is over because I can’t bear the thought of never handing over a note, smiling in a kind but firm way and saying, ‘keep the change’.

On the upside we have all found that technology is the great enabler when it comes to staying connected and in touch.  I’ve been part of productive and positively effervescent meetings of over 70 people ranging from Australia, through Europe and to the west coast of America.  When borders open and flying seems normal again there will be a renewal of travel for business and fun, but meeting and working virtually has undoubtedly come of age.

That’s worth a pause.  Nothing can quite replace the emotion and excitement of standing alongside people you know and like after a long period of separation.   One of the most moving things about global conferences is to see colleagues who have not met for many months, or even years, approaching each other with uncontrollable joy.  Even for a reserved Englishman the embrace has become the norm under such circumstances.

In that respect I don’t see the elbow bump, foot-shake or formal bow becoming the norm.  They all have their place and will enable adults to engage in a charming social dance that will be a reminder of the global pandemic they have survived.  But after that they will laugh and then they will hug and perhaps hold each other a little tighter and longer as a reminder of what it is to be human.   

Keep safe and well.  Remember that there will be a time when this is over.    

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD AND BAD BLOOD

An emergency call for donors by the San Diego Blood Bank was a real opportunity for an expat to show their commitment to the community and their new countrymen.  With O-positive in particular demand I felt appreciated, welcomed and worthy.  Slinking out an hour later with a sore finger and the ignominy of rejection was a reminder that there are some things you can’t even give away.

It was all going very well as I chatted to the assistant about my history of blood donation in the UK and my happiness at being part of the experience in my new country.  The pain of the finger prick was forgotten as we celebrated my healthy count of red platelets.  And my blood pressure was doing just fine despite the New Year celebrations and the anxiety which besets any Manchester United supporter on a weekly basis.

We moved on to questions about countries visited and there was a small moment of panic as I tried to remember dates visiting Pakistan and Thailand.  Maps were produced and the red indicated malaria probability, but I was happy to give reassurance that I probably drank enough tonic with quinine (and a little gin) to be safe.  It seemed plain sailing and I was looking forward to the lying down for twenty minutes part when the axe fell.

Did I live in the UK between 1980 and 1996 sounded like a trick question and I am sure my eyes narrowed as I tried to work out if I’d accidentally walked into a Homeland Security inquisition.  I checked the room for cameras and was wondering whether I should have been read my rights.  For some reason the line ‘Fee, Fo, Fi, Fum, I smell the blood of an Englishman’ came to mind.

But the look of disappointment on my inquisitor’s face was evident as he expressed his disappointment that I really was English and had lived there for so long.  My blood could not be taken and it was all down to the initials vCJD and BSE.  The American Red Cross and the Food and Drug Agency thinks that the English all have mad cow disease.

As usual a flood of bad jokes came to mind.  I don’t find it very amoosing.  Pull the udder one.  I’ve never herd that before.  As it was, the first words out of my mouth were, ‘I thought we had moved on from that.’  The irony was wasted on both of us and I really wish I had said ‘moooooved on’.

If ever evidence that life is circular it took me back to early 1996 when I was at ASDA and a firm link was drawn between bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) and variant Creutzfeld-Jakob disease in humans.  Just six years earlier Agriculture Minister John Selwyn Gummer had shown his belief that UK beef was safe for people by feeding his 4-year old daughter, Cordelia, a burger for the cameras.  I’m pleased to report that as of the latest report I can find Cordelia was healthy but by 2016 some 177 people in the UK had died of the disease and that may not be the end of the problem.

At the time it seemed another food crisis to match Health Minister Edwina Currie claiming in 1988 that salmonella was endemic in UK egg production.  Inevitably labelled ‘Eggwina’ by the tabloids she was forced to resign but the ensuing crisis led to more scrutiny of the food chain and advice for the vulnerable.  Both incidents are good reminders that you can never be too careful about what you put on your plate or in your body.

Which brings me back to blood because I now know that if you lived for more than 3 months in the UK between 1980 and 1996 you might struggle to donate blood in any part of the western world.  The ban in the US is replicated in Canada, Australia and many parts of Europe (including Germany and France).  There’s little chance of it being lifted and that’s probably the right answer given the extraordinary importance of keeping blood banks pure and unsullied. 

For the interested there is an explanation of the system used by the NHS Blood and Transplant service in the UK and how they protect users.  Nobody needs to worry too much on that score and it would appear that the original horror stories of 500,000 or more dying of vCJD will continue to be well wide of the mark.  Giving blood remains an important way of contributing to society and to the world admired NHS.

The blood ban is particularly ironical at a point where there is growing concern in the UK about the potential of imports from the US as deals are done after Brexit.  It’s interesting to read that in addition to concerns over chlorine washed chickens there appear to be ten US foods that are widely banned from import around the world.  It could certainly spoil your meal to think you were eating or drinking ractopamine, brominated vegetable oil or butylated hydroxyanisole.

My comfort is that the ban on UK expatriates giving blood is that it reflects the reality of what I always think of as actuarial decision making.  Apparently, the ban enacted was estimated to lose the US health system something of the order of 2.2% of its blood donations a year.  It’s an amount that can probably be made up from improved publicity and management of donors and that’s far better than infecting someone with bad blood (or the cost of the law suit that might follow).  If the impact was greater then one can assume that different precautions would be taken.

It is slightly sad to know that I will never be able to think of a US citizen as being tied to me by blood or give freely to meet one of society’s needs.  Maybe on my next visit to the UK I will look for a time when the NHS is in town and giving out free tea and biscuits for a pint or two of the red stuff.  Or maybe I’ll just sit around and wonder why cows can’t wear shoes….*

*Because they lac-toes😉        

Image by Peggy und Marco Lachmann-Anke from Pixabay

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD UP IN THE AIR

Travelling on business is one of the great privileges of the world because you get to see new places and meet interesting new people.  But my recent five cities in five days trip around the US to visit Montessori training centers reminded me that it’s not always easy going.  While two people likened my tour to being like George Clooney from the film Up in the Air, I sometimes felt more like Nicholas Cage in Con Air.

It’s fair to say that I’m not really a designer-led person so booking a boutique hotel in St Paul was unlikely to be a good start.  My first encounter with a boutique was when I was thirteen and had been dared to stand by the lingerie counter in Chelsea Girl*.  The withering looks and snide comments of the assistants made Dorothy Parker and the Heathers look benevolent, and left mental scars that are with me to this day.

The words hotel and boutique are not commensurate because the former suggests welcome, low stress and comfort.  The latter represents isolation because you feel obliged to use the digital key rather than check in at reception, bewilderment at the lack of a simple book showing available services, and an uneasy feeling that you’ve been overcharged.  Boutique hotels also tend to be an obstacle course of dayglo colours, bad art, and quirky furniture designed to bruise shins, bang knees and graze elbows.       

These are hotels designed by pranksters who never put anything in the obvious place.  So, it was little surprise to spend a full ten minutes looking for a way to turn off the light in the lobby of the room.  I never considered it would be hidden in plain sight as, misleadingly, a switch with the words ‘Entry’ above it. 

Being ‘boutique’ also means using the word environmentalism as a convenient way to reduce service.  Liquid soap dispensers are placed high on the wall to suit those who shower while discouraging and punishing those who revel in a good bath.  Standing and shivering in my early morning dripping, naked glory to take a handful of soap is a reminder that the invention of the bar of soap (as early as 2800BC) is one of the things that separates us from Cro-Magnon Man.

With signs about turning lights off (if you can find the switch), saving water and reusing bath towels, this boutique hotel was clearly setting itself up to be on the UN Champions of the Earth award list.  But the lack of follow through became evident when, after another ten-minute hunt, I found the tea and coffee stashed in a wholly unnecessary ‘designer’ cardboard tube shaped like a Toblerone.        

As it happens lights are a constant cause of hotel rage with almost every room having something that flashes or an eerie glow coming from an undefined source.  The digital clock in the hotel outdid itself because when I turned it so the glare faced away from the bed I found that there was also a display on the side.  Are people really so idle that they can’t be expected to adjust their neck to look at the front of a clock just two feet away?         

Hotel bathrooms are an increasing hazard because I rarely bother to wear my glasses during my ablutions, and I know I am not alone in finding that can lead to moments worthy of Mr Bean.  An ex-colleague once said that a combination of myopia and a bad hangover led them to try and brush their teeth with athlete’s foot ointment.  My own episode Mr Magoo in Milwaukee came when, after squinting at four similar bottles with indistinct writing, I finally managed to try and shampoo my hair with mouthwash.

And don’t get me started on the danger of hotel showers. No indicator of the direction for hot or cold is common and results in rapid hypothermia or boiled bits to kick the day off. Or the uncertainty of whether there will be a dribble of water too limp to rinse properly or a torrent mighty enough to knock you over.  

And then there is the flying. Everybody who has remained among my band of Facebook friends has become familiar with my concern about the state of rail travel.  Actually, they have become familiar with the fact that I don’t really like people who are anything but still and quiet when they are in an enclosed, shared space.  Some would say that the previous sentence could end after ‘I don’t really like people…’  The point here is that planes can be worse.

Research has demonstrated conclusively how planes should be boarded to deliver maximum efficiency.  So, it is a total mystery why airlines continue to follow systems that are doomed to fall foul of people who are subconsciously trying to delay getting onto a cramped metal box that could fall out of the sky.  Thousands of years of evolution have conditioned us to realise that being higher up than six feet is dangerous and that, as Buzz Lightyear put it, what we see as flying can be characterised as ‘falling with style’.

The other thing is that the whole game of what you can take on a plane has got totally out of hand.  I would happily allow explosive material and sharp things if only to use them on the guy who sat next to me from Milwaukee to Detroit and ate a curry that was aromatic enough to qualify as a weapon of mass destruction.  Allowing emotional support animals is also a step too far because flying is meant to be stressful so that we are reminded not to try it at home.

Uber has become a lifeline to getting anywhere in an unfamiliar town but sometimes the chattiness of the driver can take you down a path that is less than perfect.  One ride in Washington DC began with me asking the driver how he had got into the Uber line of work.  It was disturbing to hear him say that he had been a flight attendant but had to give up because of the effect of pressurised cabins on his badly damaged retina.

You also find that some airports are adapting in different ways to the need of passengers for pick up points.  Most still have a lawless scrum where phone wielding, tired and often emotional clients seek out their drivers through a mixture of shouting, barging and rushing out into the traffic.  Full marks to Portland which has streamlined to one line of cares and one queue of passengers – it worked best of all.

There were many good things from the week.  My new Hartmann luggage enabled me to manage five days of clothes, including two suits, three pairs of shoes, a full change of shirts every day and casual clothes without checking luggage.  I didn’t lose anything, each flight landed close to published time and the TSA pre-check service allowed painless security checks every time.  And I met really talented, intelligent and thoughtful people.  Probably just as well because I had to do it all again two weeks’ later…..      

*Founded in 1965, Chelsea Girl was the UK’s first fashion boutique chain.  It became River Island in 1988.

Image by Thanks for your Like • donations welcome from Pixabay

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD SEEKS NFL ALLEGIANCE

Two years into the journey it’s time I selected an American football team to support.  But it’s really very difficult without the personal or cultural signposts that lead to lifelong fandom.  Neither do I have the guidance of a father for who the Munich Air Disaster meant that it was Manchester United or nothing.

For the first time I find myself trying to answer the question I put whenever I see an American soccer fan in a bar wearing a Leeds shirt.  Why?  I usually don’t ask them that question until I’ve run through the plot of the Damned United and excoriated Don Revie for forsaking the England manager’s job to take the Saudi shekels. Then I explain that Billy Bremner and Johnny Giles may have looked like the Krankies but were actually spawn of the devil.

Unless you were a Loiner it was impossible to be brought up in the 1970s and support Leeds United.  The old Elland Road ground was reminiscent of the Coliseum with every visitor an object of venom and bile – and that was just on the pitch.  Fans vied with those of Millwall for exclusive rights to embody the chant of ‘nobody likes us and we don’t care’.

In my search for advice I have found that passions and partisan feelings run deep with close friends suggesting that the Dallas Cowboys and the New England Patriots are irredeemable.  Their respective crimes of declaring themselves ‘America’s team’ and being serial cheats/winners (depending on your view) mitigate against them.  And there is an assertion that the Ravens are wholly unacceptable because of ‘crimes against the Steelers’.   

A long chat with a friend’s son gave me a quick rundown of other no-go areas and counts as my Gen Z research.  Washington Redskins are pariahs for not dealing with the offensive symbology of their name and logo. The newer franchises don’t have enough history, so the Houston Texans are gone.  For similar reasons I discarded the Jacksonville Jaguars and the Carolina Panthers – although to be fair their franchises date back to 1995.

For someone born in the UK and used to clubs with very long traditions and a real dislike of the way Wimbledon were shunted up the M1 to become the MK Dons it’s also difficult to be serious about clubs which have changed city and name.  The Indianapolis Colts were once in Baltimore, the Tennessee Titans were previously the Houston Oilers, the LA Chargers used to be in San Diego, the Oakland Raiders were in LA for 12 years then came back, and the LA Rams spent 20 years as the St Louis Rams.  It’s bewildering.

It’s a luxury and selfish but I was too scarred by Manchester United’s year in the old Second Division to adopt a team that is not very good. So I have rejected the Cleveland Browns, Tampa Bay Buccaneers and New York Jets for serial underperformance.  The Arizona Cardinals and Cincinnati Bengals failed at that hurdle as have the Detroit Lions who haven’t ever been to a SuperBowl.

To narrow the field I eventually decided most teams in the south of the country were out – partly because I’ve only ever supported a team in the north of the country.  But also, I think that a team should play most of its home games with the possibility of snow, ice and freezing temperatures.  It’s the way professional sports with a ball should test a home team and after watching Game of Thrones I’m always reminded that ‘winter is coming’ is a good way to think of life.

Continuing on that basis I can’t really love any team that plays in a dome which is a shame because the Minnesota Vikings could have secured my allegiance.  There is something inherently wrong about professional sportspeople being shielded from the elements and fans being deprived of the wonders of sitting for three hours in pouring rain to demonstrate their allegiance.  I may be alone in my thinking, but it would be so much better if basketball was played outside, on a bumpy pitch, in the rain with the possibility of a strong gust of wind making a three-point effort look ridiculous.

Assem Allam’s attempt to rename Hull City AFC as Hull Tigers is a reminder that it’s OK to have an animal nickname – bonus point to anyone who can remember which UK team is the ‘throstles’ – but City, United and Rovers are sufficient for most purposes.  So I had to dispense with the Bears (Chicago), Buffalo (Bills), and the Eagles (Philadelphia). Anthropomorphism is cute but not acceptable in my pursuit of a logical answer.

For those who have followed this far it may be obvious that I have come down to the Green Bay Packers and the Pittsburgh Steelers as the contenders. Uniquely, the Packers are the only non-profit and ‘owned’ by their fans team in the NFL and will remain so after the 1960 Constitution of the League came into force.   The ownership of the Steelers has remained within the Rooney family since the organization’s founding.  The Packers are the third oldest NFL franchise and the Steelers are the oldest franchise in the AFC. 

Both are sufficiently embedded in tradition and location to be secure for the long term.  While they each have a history of success they are currently trying to find their way back to former glories.  It’s a tough choice but I have time.    

Image by Keith Johnston from Pixabay 

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD – ATLANTIC CROSSING

Whenever I come to the UK I think of the album Atlantic Crossing despite it being one of Rod Stewart’s less worthy offerings.  It’s mainly notable for the song Sailing which was recorded at Muscle Shoals at 10.30am while Stewart was, unusually for the time, singing, stone cold sober.  He didn’t want it released as a single, but it became the theme song to a ten-week BBC Series about the aircraft carrier HMS Ark Royal and his best-selling UK release.

The song was originally by the Sutherland Brothers, two folk-music playing brothers, whose lyrical genius is shown by the fact that the second verse of a song entitled Sailing contains the lines, ‘I am flying, like a bird, across the sky’.  They later combined with rock group Quiver to tour and record the undemanding pop song ‘Arms of Mary’.  Quiver’s other claim to fame is that they were the first band to play the legendary Rainbow Theatre in London.

So, a song with a misleading title, by a folk/rock combo, sung by a sober Scottish singer and on the album under protest becomes famous because of an aircraft carrier.  It may not be the strangest tale in the history of music, but it is as whimsical as some of the experiences of an itinerant Englishman.  And Atlantic Crossing was Rod’s first effort to make his mark after moving to the US so I feel a certain empathy.       

My latest sojourn to England has been enjoyable as ever but has shown that I am rapidly becoming out of touch with the ways of the Angles.  It’s not that I have totally forgotten everything that was handed down by my forebears, but I have found myself doing things that only a tourist does.  It’s very unnerving but a reminder that I am visiting rather than coming home.

I have forgotten how to cross the road without endangering myself and every driver in the area.  I keep looking the wrong way and stepping out full of confidence that nothing is going to hit me.  After a few tries I have found that the only way to be safe is to approach the road with my head swivelling like an owl in a barn full of  field mice.

After eating I keep asking for the check (and yes in America it is a check even when it is a cheque).  Restaurant staff are too polite to ask me if I am just being ironically trans-Atlantic or just influenced by too many shandies.  I usually blush and stammer, ‘oops sorry, I meant bill, but I live in San Diego now….’, before trailing off under a stare that suggests they really don’t care.

Arriving without an umbrella was also not my best idea.  I had forgotten how much it rains in England and how, even when it is not raining hard there is a misty, spitting sort of precipitation that leaves you damp.  All of this not helped by the reality that older English hotels are delightful but not endowed with ways to get warm or dry.

The good thing about the weather is that I have been freed to have more baths in seven days than I have in the last seven months.  At first, I was timid because I had got used to a shower routine that is vital in a place where it doesn’t rain for nine months of the year and the water bill makes H2O seem more valuable than gold.  Once I got over my culture shock, I plunged into a routine of baths both morning and night and have every intention of squeezing in three during the last 18 hours before the plane.

I have lost the ability to deal in the coins of the realm and had an uncomfortable moment in the supermarket where I kept trying to feed the automatic checkout with a fifty pence piece that wouldn’t work.  The shop assistant who came to my assistance was surprised enough to blurt out loud that her grandfather had “some of those antique coins” in his collection.  I reverted to paying for everything with notes to save time and embarrassment but am left with a bag of metal for the charity collection on the plane.

It has been lovely to hear people speaking in accents and tones that are as redolent of my youth as Manchester United getting relegated to the old second division.  Both these features have mixed memories because for every Norfolk burr there is an estuary sentence full of glottal stops, dropped aitches and foul language.  And for every memory of the glorious recovery under Docherty and onwards to Ferguson there is the sadness of watching incompetent management buy Ian Ure from Arsenal, who became my constant nemesis as the worst player in United’s history.

Difficult to get this far without mentioning Brexit.  Truth is that it is difficult to know what to say and this is not the place for a political rant about the ineptness of a referendum for such a significant change to be based on a 50/50 vote.  Neither is it helpful for someone with their interests in another part of the world to question the right of a minority government to drive legislation that will change the future for millions.

Almost everyone I have spoken to has been sad but resigned to leaving the European Union.  Some of the Scottish and Northern Irish seem steely eyed about taking a new opportunity for statehood, independence or realignment that places them back in the European fold.  The Brexiteers, my favored name for the ‘Leavers’, continue to sound like a raddled, sulky, deceitful, agit-pop band, but seem uncertain about the “sunlit uplands” that await and even less sure about the veracity and quality of the politicians leading them.

Next time I return I believe it will be to a nation that is making its own way in the world.  That was how it was when it became the land of the ‘mother of parliaments’, the lone defender against fascism and the leader of cultural and technical innovations that continue to influence creative enterprises around the world.  My fingers are crossed that its future allows it to rediscover its courtesy and civility, be a beacon to the ambitious and the oppressed and, above all, a place to be proud of.      

       
Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay   

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD FINDS THE BREXIT BONUS

Having completed my own Brexit nearly two years ago I hadn’t expected too much more from my home country.  But the political meanderings over two years since the vote have been the gift that keeps on giving. And over the past two weeks I have been in higher demand than usual by US acquaintances looking for answers.

Being an authoritative source on all matters British and political has its responsibilities.  That hasn’t prevented me claiming that every time anyone in the UK says ‘the Queen’ or ‘Her Majesty’ they have to add ‘God Bless Her’.  But by and large I have been a serious commentator on what are extraordinary times.

It’s very difficult to explain the role of the Queen (God Bless Her) in a Parliamentary democracy.  There is also a touching faith in this ex-colony that she is the smartest person in the country and should just step in to direct MPs on which way is up.  It’s particularly difficult to explain that she has to avoid becoming involved in politics. 

That leads to a whole bunch of unanswerable questions about why she gets to pick the Prime Minister, give Royal Assent to Bills to make them law, and why it’s Her Majesty’s Government.  This gets compounded when I comment that Boris Johnson’s majority would have been lost long ago if the Sinn Fein members chose to sit.  I’d invite everyone to work out why a democratically elected Member of Parliament can’t sit because they won’t swear allegiance to someone who has no direct authority over them.

The House of Lords is another source of mystery and amusement to an incredulous American.  The notion of an unelected group being able to stymie the progress of Bills passed by elected MPs is  as mystifying to me as anyone.  I have taken to calling them the House of Unrepresentatives and relying on interminable, dull, repetitive detail to bore my listeners – a bit like an ordinary day in the House of Lords really.

For the interested (and this is a bit of a pop quiz for readers in the UK) I explain that the full name is the Right Honourable the Lords Spiritual and Temporal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland in Parliament Assembled.  It meets in a Palace and doesn’t have a fixed size but its make up includes 92 hereditary peers, 26 bishops, and a bunch of people appointed by the Queen (God Bless Her).  At this point I usually have to confirm that Her Majesty remains above politics and only acts on advice.

One contention of the Americans is that this is a separation of powers issue which arises because we don’t have a written Constitution.  My first line of defence is to argue that it is difficult to see how a document written in the 1780s is entirely fit for purpose over 220 years later and they spend a lot of time in court arguing over interpretations.  A little more smugly, I usually go on to point out that the first ten amendments, passed in 1791, are largely based on Magna Carta (1215) and the English Bill of Rights (1689).

Talk then turns to the machinations in Parliament and the role of the Prime Minister.  Here, the difficulty is that there is a tendency to confuse his role and powers with those of the President in the US.  There is some consternation but also some envy when I explain that the Prime Minister is not elected by the populace and that there’s a reasonable tradition of Prime Ministers being ousted by their own party. 

Explaining the powers of the Prime Minister is a bit like trying to explain dark matter.  Aficionados believe it is exists and there is even a reasonable theoretical basis for suggesting it makes a real difference.  But every time push comes to shove the evidence disappears as quickly as a manager of Chelsea football club.

Boris Johnson losing his first three or four votes has made this even more complicated than explaining how Theresa May’s rose to the top political post in the UK after a career with no visible achievements. Equally difficult is explaining why Boris has been able to instantly make the leader of the opposition look like a statesman of gravitas, sense and focus.  And neither is as satisfying as explaining that Jo Johnson’s election and appointment to a Government post was nothing like the rise of Ivanka and Jared to positions of authority in the White House. 

Speaking of Jo Johnson reminds me that Brexit has been a goldmine for memes.  My favourite three currently are:

  • Jo Johnson resigned to spend less time with his family
  • James Bond to the Queen ‘The Members of Parliament, Ma’am?’.  The Queen, ‘Yes, 007, all of them’     
  • The picture of Jacob Rees-Mogg lounging on a bench in the House of Commons being turned into a brilliant visual where he is cuddled by a topless man

Grimmer, but beautifully framed in its righteous scorn, was a comment in the speech by Sir Nicholas Soames after being removed from the Conservative party for voting against the Government.  He commented on the actions of ‘…my right-honourable friend the Prime Minister, the Leader of the House and other members of the Cabinet whose serial disloyalty has been an inspiration for so many of us.’  Truth, humour and sadness captured in a dozen words. 

All this has a serious side and for expats the gloom of the falling pound has only been matched by the sense that the country is being ridiculed for its introspection and in-fighting.  But then, almost miraculously, another day of extraordinary tension showed a silver lining and confirmed something I had been saying for months to my American friends.

I had patiently explained that MPs are representatives and therefore have a duty to do what they think is in the best interests of their constituents even if their constituents didn’t agree.  I also said that MPs could and would vote against their party on issues of conscience.  The voting, changing of party and ousting of members from the conservative party brought this home in spectacular style.

It was a matter of enormous pride to see MPs face down bullying, threats and the prospect of their careers ending in order to vote in the national interest.  For those I know in the US it was great theatre but it has been interesting to see them reflect that partisan politics mean it has become impossible to imagine such a widespread demonstration of individual accountability in their Senate.  At least members of the Mother of Parliaments, for all the chaos, have shown their willingness to take responsibility whatever the personal cost. 


Image by Tumisu from Pixabay     

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD MUSES ABOUT FOOTBALL FROM THE LAND OF THE WORLD CUP WINNERS

It’s been a good summer of football with the Women’s World Cup reaching delightful heights of quality and tension, the Copa America being as unpredictable and bad tempered as usual, and the CONACAF matches reminding me of the enormous potential in Haiti and Jamaica.  The latter even brought new information when I realised that Curacao was not just the liqueur fuelling the Big Easy Blue Punch cocktail, but was also a part of the Netherlands in the south Caribbean.  With a viewing drought of 30 days until the Premier League kicks off it’s a good moment to reflect on the game and its future.

Watching football (and I will stay with that rather than soccer) in a land where there was no professional league until 1995 is not quite the same as being in England.  The American experience does not yet have the sense of the shared history, rivalry and folklore which can be part of any pub conversation in the UK.  And it’s particularly difficult to find anyone to reminisce with about the way the game is changing.

Having said that I recently mentioned the might Ron Yeats, in the context of a discussion about the value of Virgil Van Dyck to Liverpool FC, and was appalled to find that an English-born supporter of the Anfield team didn’t know the name.  It was difficult to accept that the man Shankly called a ‘Colossus’ has been forgotten by a fan, even when big Ron’s last game was before the supporter was born.  There is something very wrong, but mildly ironical, about a world where a Manchester United fan is giving history lessons about Liverpool to a scouser.

Some change in the game is for the better and the rise in popularity and coverage of women’s football is one example. The USL W-League was formed in 1995 and became the first national football league in the US providing an outlet for professional players.  It beat the start of the US men’s league by a year so  all hail to Long Island Lady Riders, the first champions.  And all respect to the American women’s national team who became four-time World Cup winners at the end of a thrilling and brilliant competition.

The only downside of watching on this side of the Atlantic is that US commentators and pundits still need to up their game in commentary.  When I hear someone is ‘on the dribble’ I assume they are two years old and teething, and ‘service’ is something that I get at restaurants not when the ball is passed, crossed or played.  It’s jarring to listen to, as is the incessant chatter when I am perfectly able to watch the pictures.

Even worse though is the way that Video Assistant Refereeing (VAR) has become a point of contention and frustration.  Allied to the constant tinkering with the rules by FIFA and the current debacle around what constitutes handball, it has ruined several matches.  All of this has contributed to a rising penalty count which is distorting games and undermining the authority of the referee.

The statistics tell a grim story – the introduction of VAR for the men’s World Cup in Russia 2018 contributed to an increase to 29 penalties after only 13 in Brazil 2014.  When the count is done for the Women’s World Cup we should also include the retaken penalties as goalkeepers came off their line a split-second before the kick was taken.  The real problem is that in a game where scores tend to be low the award of a penalty (with about an 80% chance of scoring) has a disproportionate impact on play and outcomes.

Another problem with VAR is that it brings a serious dislocation from the game that is played by millions around the world.  Without instant replays and super, high-definition slow motion there is little choice but to live with the decisions of the referee.  It is character forming and gives great lessons about the unfairness of life, the wonder of a bit of luck and proof that the universe really does not care.   

For well over a century football has remained deeply familiar and played to the same rules and in the same way all around the world.  Pitches that resembled mud-baths have been replaced by billiard table smoothness, legalised (and roundly applauded) violence in the tackle is now outlawed and vigorously punished,  whlle character, paunch and a pint (or two) on the morning of the match have been forgotten for 7% body fat, anodyne interviews and designer water.  But the greatest point of connection is that the game played in a park on a Sunday is, at a fundamental level, governed the same way as the Champions League final.

It seems to me that this is a good principle and that if we are to have assistant refereeing by video it should be limited to matters of fact.  I am in favour of VAR for offside and for digital proof that a ball has or has not crossed the goal-line.  That’s as long as the decision is made quickly and signalled clearly to the watching spectators.

But hand-ball, particularly when there is no blatant movement of the arm or unreasonable attempt to block the ball, will almost always be a matter of opinion.  Similarly, ‘dangerous play’ incidents, like the penalty given against the Dutch in the Women’s World Cup final, should be left to the referee with only serious and evident foul play being subject to VAR when officials miss them.  These decisions are part of the game and fans will always argue about them whether or not VAR intervenes with an equally ambiguous view.

Image by Jonny Lindner from Pixabay

Academic Entanglement for an Englishman Abroad

My recent talk with a student counsellor from an American university was a pretty bracing engagement.  It was all about objectives, needs and ability to pay with a swift follow up email on what I needed to do next.  What I had anticipated as a low-key chat about study options became as clinical and unnerving as an exploratory colonoscopy.

One outcome was a suggestion that I really needed to get my academic qualifications verified in the US.  My initial indignation was around the fact that I have the certificates and academic transcripts for all the higher degrees.  They have been accepted as evidence for two senior roles at UK universities so it was a surprise to find that they would not cut the mustard if I chose to apply to a US university.

The certificates are with a small batch of papers which I keep in a hard-backed envelope and will leave the house with me in the event of a fire.  Leafing through the envelope I was surprised but relieved to see that I still have the certificate from Pontins Holiday Camp confirming that I swam a width when I was eleven years old.  I even have the scraps of paper which confirm my sub-optimal performance at ‘O’ and ‘A’ level

It’s fair to say that I was not the most dedicated scholar during my school years and ‘O’ really did mean ‘Ordinary’ while ‘A’ was probably shorthand for ‘Average at best’.  I also have four CSEs which my peers would reflect stands for Completely Second-rate Education.  I am still slightly stung by the comment on one school record that says ‘always did the minimum with least effort’ but realise, looking back, that it was probably true.

Of course, we are all familiar with stories about the rather underwhelming academic record of Einstein and Churchill.  But the former’s minor troubles in French and the Humanities were more than overshadowed by the fact that he mastered differential and integral calculus before he was fifteen.  Even the latter’s patchy school record can be forgiven for his 1953 Nobel Prize for Literature demonstrating “his mastery of historical and biographical description as well as for brilliant oratory in defending exalted human values.”

I can’t claim either as inspiration but by my late twenties, having been thoroughly schooled in the meaning of discipline and application by the retailers at Tesco and ASDA, I hauled myself out of my academic tailspin.  Eleven years of studying at a distance and paying out of my own pocket schooled me in submitting essays at 3am in the morning and posting them from motorway service stations, airports and even foreign capitals.  Six years of summer schools educated me in how surprisingly feral middle-aged people can become when let off the leash with people they will never see again.

After all that effort it was very satisfying to get my degrees which made it all the more perplexing to realise that the certificates and my honest demeanour were not going to be enough. I guess that every computer now has the software to knock up a reasonable copy that might allow someone to substantiate claims of having a really high IQ and a big brain. Or they might simply choose to make the claim while ensuring that their academic records never saw the light of day.

My diligent counsellor advised me that the best thing to do was have my qualifications reviewed by World Education Services (WES) or a similar service.  For $150 dollars they would confirm to an American university or an employer something that the University awarding my degree already knew.  I’m keeping the bits of paper in the hard-backed envelope but have a sense of sadness that their purpose is almost entirely lost.

I chose to go with WES because it sounds like a real person which, I suspect, is one of the reasons that Alexa seems to have become more popular and talked about than Siri.   SIRI is derived from Speech Interpretation & Recognition Interface but is also a real name in Scandinavia with the meaning ‘beautiful victory’.  Given that not many speak Scandinavian (and even fewer speak Swahili where ‘siri’ means secret) I’d guess that this is lost on most of the world.

While Alexa is a made-up name it has sufficient echoes of standard first names, male and female, to sound familiar.  Alexander the Great, Sir Alex Ferguson (who is considered the greatest after winning the Champions League, Premier League and FA Cup in a single season) and Alex Kingston are among the better known.  It is pleasing to note in terms of new words I have learnt today that Alexandra Smirnoff (1838–1913) was a Finnish pomologist – the branch of botany that studies and cultivates fruit.

Returning to the task in hand I can report that the entanglement with WES and my alma mater, the Open University, has been less than perfect so far.  WES has quite exacting demands in terms of material being sent under seal and signature and the Open University form making the request does not allow me to specify this in detail.  I am left hoping, without expectation, that these organisations are so familiar with the process that it will all work out.

The system seems to have largely been established for those pursuing careers or qualifications in academia.  It’s an opaque world which institutions would do well to open up by making transcripts available through secure digital systems for free.  These should be available to any institution or employer, anywhere in the world, authorised by the student to access them.

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD SEES THE SKY FALLING DOWN

Cultural appropriation should be punishable by having an acorn falling on your head.  After that catastrophe you should live out your days in mortal-fear of global catastrophe.  And when you least expect it you should be eaten by a sneaky but smart tod*.

Any English-person of a certain era and with a child would recognize elements of that as a reference to the fate of Chicken-Licken.  They would share my outrage at finding that on this side of the Atlantic it has been usurped by the tale of Chicken Little.  Even worse, the Henny Penny Corporation (!) claimed in 2011 that Chicken Licken is the “largest non-American-owned fried chicken franchise in the world”.

Naming a company responsible for the Evolution Elite Open Fryer, used to deep-fry chicken for commercial purposes, after an innocent nursery rhyme fowl seems wrong on every level.  I am left wondering if the aforementioned Chicken Licken hands out Foxy Loxy masks to all its customers as they gorge on the product.  And do they do a sideline in Goosey Loosey pieces or Ducky Lucky fries?

My deep dive on the subject led me to discover that there is a formal classification system for organizing, classifying, and analyzing folklore narratives.  It’s pretty heady stuff when you consider that four-year olds decide which ones they like, without any guidance.  But step forward and take a bow Finnish folklorist Antti Aarne who published the first version as Verzeichnis der Märchentypen in 1910. 

Next time I’m asked what the Finns have ever done for Western civilization I can add this to my short list that has previously only included staving off the Russians in 1944, cross-country skiing, and being a potential punchline to any joke which contains the words “I’ve started…..”.  I guess that their other major contribution has been winning the Eurovision Song Contest with a heavy metal band (Lordi with Hard Rock Hallelujah in 2006). It made Dana and All Kinds of Everything seem a very long time ago.

For the record the first publication of this European folk-story came in 1823 when Just Mathias Thiele published a version in Danish.  Beguilingly the main character was Kylling Kluk, with the word Kylling being Danish for a chick.  It all ended badly with everyone getting eaten by the fox which suggests it may have been a trial run for Danish TV series and smash hit, The Killing.

Out of fairness I will acknowledge that the all-powerful Wikipedia suggests that Chandler’s publication of ‘The Remarkable Story of Chicken Little’ in 1840 appears to pre-date any English versions.  But the title is a typical example of over-statement and hysteria which would be better reserved for the era of conspiracy theorists.  What’s ‘remarkable’ about farmyard animals getting together because they think the world is coming to an end?

More sober and appropriate is ‘The Story of Chicken-licken’ published by Halliwell in 1849.  Critically, the animals are purposeful and set out to tell the King about their vision of catastrophe while Chandler’s animals just milled around in a frightened manner before being eaten.  Right now, of course, this seems to be a good metaphor for both the Republican party in the US and Theresa May’s Government in the UK.

If I was seeking further proof of the rightness of Chicken-licken my clincher would be that Chicken Little doesn’t even rhyme.  There is no point to Chandler having Hen Pen, Duck Luck, Goose Loose et al when the main character is a startlingly poor example of blank verse.  Perhaps that’s what comes of having someone who was primarily a wood-engraver and lithographer trying to tell a tale of everyday farm animals in a state of moral panic.

*tod is Scottish dialect for fox (it’s also a unit of weight for 28lb of wool but the notion of a carnivorous ball of wool would mean I’d never wear a jumper again)